Scott Warner snapped this shot of me and the affable Jonathan Gold, restaurant critic of the Los Angeles Times, as our talk began.
When I walked up, Jonathan Gold stood talking with a small group of food writers. It was after his keynote presentation at the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) annual conference in Hollywood, CA, and I was late for a session. I didn’t care. One of my food writing idols seemed to be available in the cavernous ballroom.
How often does that happen? At IACP, quite often. If you’ve been to their conferences, you probably remember when Julia Child and Jaques Pepin roamed the halls, official IACP bag over their shoulders, open to a chat.
Too scared to talk with either of them, I decided I wasn’t going to blow this opportunity. I had just teared up as the crowd watched the trailer for City of Gold (above), the new documentary about this Pulitzer Prize-wining food writer for the Los Angeles Times.
So I said hello and somehow, Jonathan Gold and I sat and talked for over an hour, for no apparent reason other than that he was willing.
(We weren’t total strangers. We met years ago, when he spoke at a food writing workshop I chaired at UCLA. And he has actually left a comment or two on this blog. )
Among the topics we discussed:
- cultural appropriation, an important topic in food writing
- his feud with Rick Bayless
- a memoir he’s behind on that’s due in August (see the movie regarding his legendary procrastination)
- how much he disliked the inclusion of his procrastination in the documentary
- the rise of women chefs in Los Angeles
- wearing disguises as a reviewer, and
- whether he should review the restaurants of people he’s friends with, particularly chef Nancy Silverton.
I wasn’t sure how to handle this impromptu gift. I took out a notepad early on, when we were at a particularly sensitive moment, and he asked if our talk was on the record. I said it didn’t have to be, then put it away. But I’m not used to talking with someone of his stature without taking notes. So it was more like an interview, because as a journalist, that’s what I know how to do.
Throughout our conversation he was genial, kind, thoughtful, and thought provoking. When I made assertions he disagreed with, he gently explained his view without pomposity or aggression. He was not intimidating in the least.
When you watch City of Gold, you will be thrilled by how much access you have to him. What I liked most are Gold’s subversiveness (he includes a food truck and small strip-mall restaurants in his guide to L.A.’s best restaurants); and his embrace of “the other:” He loves the the taco stand in the laundromat as much as he loves fine dining.
So the morals of today’s blog post are:
- Go to conferences and allow the unexpected to occur
- Talk with people you respect, even if you’re afraid. I encouraged a client to approach Gold, and after they talked he said, “Contact (editorial director) Peter Meehan at Lucky Peach and tell him I sent you.” Pretty cool, eh?
- Go see the movie and learn how Gold operates as a food critic and culinary cartographer. His curiosity and intellect are legendary. Bring tissues. (Technically this is not a moral but it’s a moral imperative!)
* * *
You may also like to read these excellent pieces:
- The Scavenger. A profile of Jonathan Gold in The New Yorker
- An interview with Gold in The Believer. about his techniques as a food writer.
He was completely and utterly cordial and pleasant.
Yes, and just wandering the halls, hanging out! What a pleasure.
This is exactly how I felt about meeting you some years back in Santa Monica at another food-writing conference. Remember how three of us sat together and gossiped a little? I was thrilled to meet a writer who I so admired – and still do – who was so approachable, fun and clever.
I agree with Liz!!!!! But, loved reading this Dianne. Saw the film and have long been an admirer, I’d be starstruck too! But, you are just as much of a force in food writing. And, I feel honoured to have met you and broken bread with you in the depths of the Irish countryside.
Imen x
You are sweet, Imen. Let’s do it again, okay? It was a thrill for me to meet you! And I fell in love with Ireland.
Awww, thanks Liz. What about how much I enjoyed meeting you, and how we are still friends?
There were a few people at the conference who approached me and were clearly nervous.
I saw you two chatting from afar. 😉 Go, Dianne! Feels good to step out of that comfort zone. 🙂
Indeed! It was a thrill to just talk, even though I was mostly interviewing him because I wasn’t sure how else to talk with him.
Inspiring. Thanks for sharing stories like this.
My pleasure Keren. No doubt you have stories like this.
I agree with Liz & keep it up.
Thank you. I shall keep up my nerves when finding a writer I admire in my midst.
Such an authentic and heartwarming story, Dianne, thank you.
Quite the miracle. I just checked, and in our small town’s movie theater that rarely shows the movies I want to see amidst the sci fi and action films, City of Gold is now playing! After reading your story and seeing the trailer, I can hardly wait to see it.
Alas, it isn’t true. Misinformation.
Oh too bad. You’ll have to keep an eye out for it. Or a year from now, rent it on Netflix.
Oh yes, please go right away! I already want to see it again. And thank you.
I love this post so much. Thank you for it. I thought of looking for him, and hoping for a conversation or at least to listen in on one he was having with others. But I talked myself out of it because of Too Scared to Talk with Him. After reading this, next time I will make myself go for it. With the trailer so moving, I’m hungry to take in the entire film. And about interviewing – I think I often do that, not just for a story but as a conversation.
Oh good. And after you read this post, Scott Warner sent me a photo of the two of us talking, and I put it at the top of the blog. You will see that he is actually smiling and seems to be enjoying himself! So we should give ourselves more credit. We can be interesting to other people, even if we are a bit nervous at first.
So you also interview people instead of having a conversation? I can’t seem to stop that. I am always curious.
What a lovely post and an inspiring reminder to be brave and courageous even around – especially around! – the people who admire. I truly hope this film comes to the UK because I’m so anxious to see it!
I hope so too Alexandra. Thanks for the kind words. I hope it helps you get up your courage the next time someone you admire is standing near you.
Dianne, how lucky I was to sit in on your chat with Jonathon Gold at
IACP. And how beautifully and compactly you captured the essence of
that fascinating exchange. I can see why you’re such a fine teacher of
food writing. May our paths cross again, and again.
Scott Warner, President, Culinary Historians of Chicago
Scott! Thank you so much for the photo. You took at at the beginning, before we got tired of standing and sat down. I remember you saying that you got a prime seat in a private interview between me and Jonathan. It did feel that way. Thanks for joining us.
I love that you had this experience with the inimitable J Gold, and I love the larger lesson–don’t let shyness/self-deprecation get in the way of taking such an opportunity when it appears. Even if it goes nowhere, you’ll kick yourself if you don’t try. Very early in my career, I sucked it up and approached an idol at IACP; she became a primary mentor and today we’re good friends living in the same town. You just never know where a conversation might lead.
That is a fantastic story, Mary Margaret. I want to know more about this woman. And it’s true, you don’t know where it will lead. As I mentioned at the end, someone I’m working with approached him and he gave her an introduction to a national magazine. Just like that.
I found him approachable, too. And, he even knew that I am now an author. What a great guy! Kate
That is so cool! We never imagine that someone that famous might know who we are.
I, too, was in tears just watching the trailer for the movie, and can’t wait to see it. I’m a native Los Angelino and am sorry to say I wasn’t familiar with Jonathan Gold beforehand, but hearing about him and all that he does to reveal the delicious nooks and crannies of LA makes me proud. Thanks for your story and giving me even more reason to be in awe of Jonathan Gold.
I am not a native Angeleno but I lived there for close to 10 years and loved it. He captures the city so beautifully. I hope you will not only see the movie but read some of his reviews to see the complexity of his writing.
It was a life changing moment for me! I still feel intimated thinking about that day. I’m so glad you encouraged me. Otherwise I’d never gather the courage to walk up and talk! And of course, I’ll be trying the same thing again in the future, even with my legs shaking while trying very hard to gather thoughts in my mind 🙂 You opened a whole new world for me Dianne!
Wonderful, Maggie. It took guts to walk up to him twice in one day but you did it!
I’m generally reluctant to approach any of my food writing heroes for fear of not being able to think of anything sensible to say. However, I overcame that with you and attempt will do so again later this year when another food study giant comes to Australia.
Well I had no idea you were reluctant. Who’s coming to Australia this time? Someone said he was trying to get me on the docket, but I don’t think he’s as clever as you.
Thanks for sharing this story. I had two important take aways from it: First, I cannot wait to see “City of Gold,” which unfortunately isn’t playing anywhere near me in Maine according to the documentary’s website. I’d heard about this movie, but watching the trailer made all the difference. Second, I stopped going to conferences a few years ago because I wasn’t getting enough out of them. They were more like expensive social trips than personal enrichment. Since then, I have read agendas hoping to find a conference worth attending (for me) … off to check out IACP, which I knew about but have overlooked. Thanks.
Oh too bad about the movie not showing near you. Maybe the next time you travel you can take it in. IACP was thrilling this year — so much good networking, seeing so many people I know and admire, having fun, learning. I linked to a list of conferences I made for this year, so take a look also.
Thanks, Dianne. I will!
Not completely surprising. Almost all the important people I’ve approached with heart in mouth at conferences (IACP and WCR) have been totally gracious, even as I gushed and fumfered. Maybe it’s something about being in food: the ethos of nurturing extends in all directions. So when someone approaches me (?!?! “I’m nobody/who are you?”), I try to be the same. Always turns out to be fun, and the sharing of information is great.
You flumfered! That sounds serious. And yet it worked out, Suzanne.
We have these ideas that people are going to be ogres or rude, and it’s so reassuring to find out we were wrong.
Pleased, yet not surprised, I wasn’t the only one in tears watching the trailer. As for the movie, a riveter! Thanks for posting this, Diane. It is so true of Gold and of IACP conference. Looking forward to the next IACP adventure! Warmly, Margaret
I’m glad you got to see it, Margaret. Maybe I’ll see you next year in Louisville.
Just saw “City of Gold” – absolutely adored it and JG. It’s a love song to what is best about LA.
Absolutely. His embrace of “the other” slayed me. XO